Seems there's not many of us for a start!
Anyway here are some things I've come to accept as my standard processing routine for GH1 rawfiles.
1. Colour profile. Normally I select FIlm mode V1, as this generally ups the contrast a fair bit in itself, coupled with contrast mode 'a little strong' yu getquite a punchy image. However when in a situation of low crontrast, Bright mid day sun or really flat rain cloud skies, I find V1 mode tends to screw foliage right up (tending towards yellow). In such situations I prefer to use Memory colour 2, which has a very Canonesque colour scheme with really bright punchy greens, which under normal conditions are too neon green.
2. Sharpening vs Noise reduction. At ISO 100, forget about the noise reduction, leave it where it is. hit sharpening up to around 20-25 dependant on how much is needed, and you're done. This is generally enough,although sometimes a little more is necessary locally.
ISO 200 and above limit the sharpening to 20 or below, otherwise it exaggerates noise as white specks, regardless of noise reduction settings.
For noise control at higher ISOs, False colour control set to 100 is normally enough, however the GH1 has a major problem with blue channel noise in low light, so sunsets at high ISOs are impossible to clean up and retain detail. If I can help it then I apply no noise reduction at all, but sometims from around ISO 640 up then the noise level needs to be nudged up to around 10 and the noise cancel up to around 80. This normally does the trick, although at 100% you will see the edges of things going a little fuzzy.
3. White balance, I have never got on with setting the white balance from white objects, no matter what white object you pick it decides that the colour should be waaaay too cool, a look I've never liked. If there's sky, a dark patch of cloud usually gives much better results.
Similar story for the skin colour tool, it's useless, select a flesh tone and it messes with WB and exposure, usually upping the exposure so much that there's no longer any highlight whatsoever left.
4. Monochrome. Monochrome 2 mode is roughly equivalent to an orange filter, quite useful for conversions. However, it works a lot better when combined wit ha real red filter.
5. Highlight recovery. Don't do it! on a GH1 rawfile you get very little back after clipping, if you pass 1EV on the slider, then you're into territory where the software starts manipulating non blown areas of the image and generally turns them grey. Hard edges to a blown are become a lot more defined if you go past this point. What it can pull back, it will have no colour or contrast. My advice, turn on the highlight warning on the camera, and pay close attention to it. You'll be able to do far more with an underexposed image than an overexposed one.
6. Pulling up shadows with curves. This works really well, I've yet to lose an image to shadows. So far I've been able to deal with ISO800 shots with mahor shadow brightening (around 3-4EVs worth) and have been able to control the noise. For some reason shadow noise tends to be uniformly green, and for that reason when it's pulled up tends to affect the white balance.
7. Apparant sharpening - take no notice of the in hopuse display, it always appears sharper in Silkypix than it does when output.
I think that'll do. I actually rather like SIlkypix, although it's a bit of a quirky program wih a strange interface, it does give some nice results. Would Photoshop or lightroom be better? Well I don't know as I have no desire to try them, anything I can't do in Silkypix is done in PSP X2, and that's not an awful lot most of the time.